
Climbing for Palm Sugar in Bebandem
Bebandem, Karangasem
I Nengah climbs twice a day, every day. You meet him at the first round and stay for the boiling shed.

farming · traditional · culinary
Bebandem sits between Amlapura and the slopes of Agung, on soil too dry for the postcard terraces. What grows here is palm, cassava and salak, and the village's tappers climb twice a day for the sap that becomes palm sugar and vinegar.
Balinese Hindu practice with strong Bali Aga influence from neighbouring Bungaya and Asak; the banjar closes lanes on ritual days.
Tapping and farming households, cattle traders, and salak growers on the upper slopes.
Palm sugar in everything, salak, grilled pork sate on market days, lawar for ceremonies only.
Bamboo sap containers, palm-leaf plaiting, lontar manuscript repair by a handful of elders.
Agung's dry southeastern flank, palm groves, salak gardens and river gullies.

Bebandem, Karangasem
I Nengah climbs twice a day, every day. You meet him at the first round and stay for the boiling shed.

Bungaya, Karangasem
A walk through a Bali Aga village with a host from the neighbouring banjar, on a day the village has said is open.