Dawn on a Jukung With Komang

Push a wooden outrigger off black sand before first light and hand-line for mackerel the way Komang's father taught him.

You leave at 05:15 with Komang, paddle and sail out past the drop-off, and fish with hand lines while the sun comes over Lombok. Whatever comes aboard is weighed at the beach co-op and the rest of the morning is breakfast at his house — grilled fish, sambal matah, rice.

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Meet Komang

Fisherman and salt farmer · Jemeluk, Amed

Komang fishes at dawn and works the salt troughs in the afternoon, as his father did. He is blunt about what tourism changed in Amed: more money, less time at sea, and a generation that may not learn either trade.

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